Where the Sea Meets Sophistication: A Stay at Onyria Marinha Cascais
It was the sound of the waves crashing against the ancient cliffs that struck me. Not through a hotel window, or from the deck of a yacht. But from a fort-turned-restaurant where the sea put on a performance while surfers danced along the Atlantic. At that moment, with the sea breeze brushing against my face, I understood why Cascais has become one of Europe’s most desired coastal escapes. At the heart of my trip was Onyria Marinha Cascais, a hotel that manages to feel welcoming, refined and family-oriented – a rare balance in luxury hospitality.
Where luxury feels like home
Arriving at Onyria Marinha Cascais, let’s set the tone. Greeted with a cool towel to refresh weary hands after the journey, I was struck by the warmth of the welcome – not just the climate. The 79 rooms and 39 villas are designed with understated elegance, merging clean modern lines with natural textures to reflect the surrounding landscape. My rooms looked out over the gardens were water fountains gurgled and birdsong played its own morning symphony.
Onyria Marinha is not just another sleek resort on Portugal’s Atlantic coast. It’s a family-run property that’s led with a personal care that makes you feel more than just a guest. The resort itself was built in 2011, but the Onyria Group story stretched back decades. A family enterprise since 1985, it began with the acquisition of land in the Quinta da Marinha area of Casais and has evolved over 25 years into a portfolio of resports, villas, hotels, golf courses, and restaurants. What started as a few tennis courts and a small restaurant has transformed into an IHG-affiliated five-star property that today hosts golfers, spa-goers, corporate retreats, and weddings. In fact, in peak golf season, over 200 players can take the course in a single day.
Family Luxury
What impressed me most was how Onyria Marinha manages to be both indulgent and inclusive. Families are welcomed with the same attention to detail as couples seeking a romantic getaway. The kids’ club ensures the little ones are entertained, allowing parents to fully unwind – whether that’s by the pool, in the spa, or on the golf course. It is the perfect model of luxury that doesn’t exclude families – a rarity in five-star hotels.
A place where every dish has a story
Dining in Cascais was a journey itself. My first evening took me to Fortaleza do Guincho, an old military fort perched above the waves. Inside, Michelin-starred Chef Gil Fernandes, who has worked at the restaurant for a decade, presented a 14-course tasting menu unlike any I’d ever experienced.
Each plate came with its own story. Memories of helping his father on the farm, fishing with his grandfather and even dishes that symbolised the environment and the threat of global warming – a prominent theme given the restaurant’s proximity to the sea. Each part of the dishes was collected locally, from the fish and seaweed to the elderflowers. The flavours were as moving as the narratives, from delicate seafood, to earthy vegetables, each course perfectly paired with wine that lifted the story further. It was more than just a meal – it was theatre, philosophy, and memory served on a plate.
The next day, at Monte Mar, a seafood restaurant owned by Onyria Marinha was perched along the coast. We were joined by Sandra, who runs the hotel’s golf course. While the table was full of fresh crab and octopus dishes, my vegetarian dishes were vibrant, colourful and rich in flavour. Here I had a delicious vegetable spaghetti. The sea breeze, the sound of the waves and the sight of cyclists gliding down the coastal path made it one of those meals that stays with you long after you’ve left the table.
As a vegetarian, I wondered about my options being limited when going to Cascais. Instead, I was surprised at every turn. From a fragrant vegetable curry to indulgent mushroom tagliatelle, I felt included at every restaurant rather than compromised. it’s a testament to the culinary creativity in Cascais that no dish felt like an afterthought.
Chefs on Fire: a festival to ignite all your senses
That evening, Cascais revealed another side of itself at Chefs on Fire, one of Portugal’s most exciting food festivals. Picture this: an open-air venue alive with music, laughter, and the irresistible aroma of woodsmoke. Fire pits and huge open flames lit up the night as some of the country’s most talented chefs cooked right before out eyes.
It wasn’t just about eating, it was a theatre. Flames leapt from skillets, sparks flew into the starry sky, and dishes emerged infused with a smoky flavour you can only get from cooking over fire. The lovely Francisco and João who work in sales at Onyria took us round. Each dish was prepared with intricate detail and still achieved that restaurant quality while being at a festival. The options felt endless with an array or meat, fish, vegetarian dishes, and desserts, it was difficult to decide – the best problem to have. With a glass of Portuguese wine in hand, we moved from station to station, listening to the live music and soaking up the atmosphere.
The energy was electric – part fine dining, part festival and part family gathering. It was able to capture the celebration of food as an experience not just sustenance, showing Portuguese culture. For me, this was a highlight of the trip as the kind of experience that lingers long after the embers cool.
Mornings for slowing down
Day two started with a bath so blissful it demanded attention. Afterwards, breakfast offered everything from fresh juices and delicate pastries to breads, pancakes, yogurts, fruit and hot food. I opted for yogurt, granola and avocado toast and enjoyed this sat in the sun, excited for the day ahead.
With a book in hand, I spent the morning basking on my balcony, listening to the sounds of the area. Onryia Marinha offers the option of hiring a bike to head down the cycle paths and along the beautiful coast, weaving past beaches, forts and viewpoints that rival any Mediterranean setting. It’s the duality of relaxation and exploration that makes this destination to compelling.
Sailing into history
On day three we went on a yacht excursion with Palma Yachts. Hosts Luis and Alex curated a morning of fine cheese, crisp wine and Atlantic views. The sea near Cascais is home to dolphins, orcas, humpback whales and minke whales. The waters also host various species of sharks, like blue shark and hammerhead and other marine life.
Back on land, we were joined by João Pinto Coelho, CCO of the Onyria Group, who took us to Mariano na praca, a seafood restaurant overlooking the marina. We sat out on the balcony indulging in all of the fresh local produce. There was a wide variety of seafood as well as a gorgeous vegetable curry.
João then took us to the centre of Cascais which is over 650 years old. A tapestry of cobbled streets, traditional houses and modern boutiques, were joined with gorgeous flute playing that made Cascais feel so special. Strolling through we entered Santini for some fresh ice cream – considered by the Financial Times as among the world’s best. It was each to see why. The old town’s mix of history and contemporary flair mirrors Cascais itself as timeless, yet forward-looking.
The beaches here are postcard-perfect — golden sand, crystal-clear water, and a cleanliness that puts many Mediterranean hotspots to shame. There’s a relaxed energy that sets Cascais apart from busier European resorts.
That evening, dinner at the hotel restaurant sealed my affection for Onyria. Thoughtfully crafted dishes, attentive service, and an atmosphere that felt celebratory yet intimate reminded me that the resort is as much a culinary destination as it is a retreat. It was inventive, beautifully presented and the kind of plated that you’d expect at a Michelin-starred spot, not a hotel. My personal favourite dishes at the hotel restaurant were the “purple sweet potato cream, truffled forest mushrooms and salted pecan nougat” to start, and the “mushroom ravioli, black garlic and kimuchi with creamy salsify” for main.
Hotel restaurants too often fall back on being “good enough,” catering to convenience rather than creativity. Onyria has turned that assumption on its head. Every dish felt indulgent and luxurious, from delicate starters to indulgent pastas and rich desserts, making dinner not just a meal but an occasion worth dressing up for.
Ironman: where endurance meets hospitality
What further makes Onyria event more compelling it its’ connection to IRONMAN Cascais, one of the world’s most celebrated endurance events. For the past eight years, Onyria has perfect as the official hotel for Ironman Cascais, supporting athletes from across the globe.
The offering is as athlete-focused as it is luxurious: early breakfasts on race day, a “Pasta Party” the night before, VIP athlete treatment, secure 24-hour bike storage, mechanic services, and even transfers to the start and finish lines. Athletes can train in the on-site lake (a 300-metre loop) or the indoor pool, while their families enjoy organised tours to Sintra, Belém, and Cabo da Roca, or simply unwind at the spa with discounted treatments and babysitting services.
But it isn’t just about logistics — it’s cultural. Many of the Onyria team live and breathe the Ironman ethos of resilience and perseverance. General Manager Paulo Figueiredo is a three-time Ironman and Kona Hawaii qualifier, his son Hugo has won the IRONMAN 70.3 Cascais, and other staff — from board members to directors — are accomplished triathletes, marathoners, and endurance competitors. Even Luis Tomé, the maintenance director, inspired his daughter Maria to pursue triathlon — she placed 11th in the women’s event at the Paris 2024 Olympics.
As João Pinto Coelho, the group’s Chief Commercial Officer, said: “Being part of Ironman truly inspires our team to go further not just in sport, but in life. It’s about resilience, perseverance, and showing that anything is possible, whether in a hotel, on a bike, or on the race course.”
Why Cascais, why Onyria?
So why should Cascais — and Onyria Marinha Cascais in particular — be on your radar? For one, the town offers a rare blend of luxury and authenticity. It’s a place where yachts share the bay with fishing boats, where five-star dining coexists with family-run ice cream parlours, and where relaxation is complemented by opportunities for exploration.
Onyria encapsulates this spirit. It’s luxurious without pretension, family-friendly without compromise, and rooted in a sense of place that feels genuine. Whether you’re a golfer chasing the perfect round, a couple in search of a romantic escape, a family seeking both adventure and downtime, or even an athlete chasing an Ironman dream, it delivers.
Rooms at Onyria Marinha start from €253 per person, per night, with a 20% deposit required upon booking (non-refundable, with cancellations within 30 days incurring a full charge). Reservations can be made via reservations@onyriaresorts.com or by calling +351 214 860 141. Visit the webiste for and further information www.onyriamarinha.com
A final reflection
As I left Cascais, the memory that lingered most wasn’t a single moment but a collection: the taste of sea-salt on grilled fish, the view of surfers riding Atlantic waves from a centuries-old fort, the smell of woodsmoke at Chefs on Fire, the hum of fountains outside my room, and the feeling of being welcomed not as a guest, but as part of something more personal.
Travel is often about chasing perfection. In Cascais, at Onyria Marinha, I didn’t need to chase it. It was already there, waiting.
